Tips for hiking Scotland’s epic West Highland Way
Walking the West Highland Way
The spectacular West Highland Way is Scotland’s greatest long-distance hiking trail. This 96-mile path begins just north of Glasgow and follows a 16th-century military road through forests, alongside the breathtaking Loch Lomond, across the highlands, and to the base of Ben Nevis in Fort William.
Hundreds of articles and detailed walking guides have been written about the West Highland Way. But I will share with you the ups and downs of the trail, which accommodation to choose (and which to avoid), the best places to eat, and some essential tips that will make your walk more enjoyable.
Why is the West Highland Way so popular?
Completing the West Highland Way is a badge of honor for walkers, hikers, and adventure enthusiasts. One hiker tells another hiker and another, and now people come from all over the world to walk the challenging 96 miles.
Sixty thousand people walk the West Highland Way each year between May and September. In 2022, the luggage transfer service was extended from April through to October, increasing numbers by an estimated 20,000 walkers. The high numbers were partly due to the pandemic and people rescheduling over 100,000 hotel and B&B booking cancellations when the UK reopened to tourists.
Exhilarating beauty
Truth be told, the main reason for walking the West Highland Way is it is breathtaking. We were often awed by the sheer beauty and mystery of the Scottish Highlands. Towering mountains and low-lying mist covering the trail ahead filled us with wonder and excitement for what was beyond.
At the top of the Devil’s Staircase, where I could not get a photo without fellow hikers
Walking with the crowds
We walked the West Highland Way at the end of September, and it was crowded. I felt like I was at Disneyland. There were hikers every 10 to 20 yards, and we were never alone on the trail. This made it hard to find somewhere quiet to have a pee, take a rest, or even talk or sing without being overheard.
The most challenging part of walking with so many hikers was that passing one another became a constant battle. We would speed up to get around someone to make space, and ten minutes later, they would have to pass us. Slow walkers would hold up the faster ones on the challenging uphill sections, hikers would be standing around waiting for an appropriate time to pass, only to reach the summit to find dozens of people sitting around. We noticed this mainly at Conic Hill, the Devil’s Staircase, and on the last segment of the trail from Kinlochleven to Fort William.
I think a lot of people found this frustrating, and toward the end of the West Highland Way, we noticed that small talk and courtesy between hikers had stopped and that people passed each other without a “hello” or “excuse me.” The camaraderie had sadly diminished. I truly hope it was just because it was the year after the pandemic and that, in the future, there will be fewer crowds.
But, if I were a solo walker, I would have felt safe knowing that fellow hikers were just around the corner. If you fell and broke your ankle without cell service, help would not be far away.
What was underfoot
What you will be walking on most of the time
Most of the West Highland Way is along a 16th-century military road that has broken down over the years and been refilled with rocks about the size of chestnuts. For me, this was the most challenging part of the hike—not the elevation, hill climbs, or crowds, but the uneven path underfoot. I felt like I was either wobbling on rocks, tripping over rocks, or kicking rocks, all while tenderizing the soles of my feet. It made it hard to enjoy the scenery around me when I had to look at the ground with every step. But this did not seem to bother my husband, who just appreciated the clearly defined path.
How to finish the West Highland Way
This is a tricky topic. We came across dozens of walkers headed for a bus stop or train station. All were sad and defeated, and all had similar reasons for dropping out.
1. Blisters were the number one reason walkers gave up. Shoes are the most important equipment for a long-distance hike. You will become one with your shoes, and you need to love them and walk 10 miles in them a few times (at least) to break them in.
2. Do not rush the hike. If you are walking 20 miles a day, five days in a row, you will struggle, even if you are a marathon runner. Hiking is not the same! Try to make each day 10–15 miles. I personally am comfortable with 10–12 miles.
3. Keep your backpack light and only carry what you need. If your pack is too heavy, your knees, hips, back, shoulders, and feet will pay the price. In the end, you will be so miserable you will be desperate to quit.
4. Make sure you have enough WATER and FUEL for the day. You do not want to get dehydrated. You should have a minimum of two liters of water to start your day, and this should be the main weight in your backpack (if it’s a daypack). A couple of extra granola bars won’t weigh you down, and you never know when you might need some emergency snacks. Do not rely on finding water or food on the way because it is hit-and-miss.
5. Don’t underestimate the weather. In the Highlands, it can be all sun and blue sky, and then in an instant, an ominous cloud rumbles in with strong winds and rain. Have your waterproofs handy, including a waterproof backpack cover.
Milngavie: Starting point of the West Highland Way
Milngavie is a suburb of Glasgow that can be reached by train, bus, or car and is 7.2 miles from the city center.
If you are planning on staying in Milngavie, there are two hotels to choose from. Both are Premier Inn, about 0.3 miles apart. We stayed at the Premier Inn Glasgow (Milngavie), which was the closest hotel to the starting point of the walk.
This hotel was not great, but there was little choice. My biggest complaint was the only window in the room only opened an inch, and there was no air conditioning. I asked the front desk for a fan but was told they were all being used. We talked to other guests, who all confirmed that the one window in their room did not open. Also, the room had a very small double bed.
There were a handful of restaurants and an M&S in the town center. The M&S was a great place to grab a sandwich for the first day’s lunch on the trail.
We ate at two different establishments in Milngavie, one for lunch and one for dinner, and had a few drinks in a nice wine bar too. Finsbay was a trendy busy restaurant with fancy cocktails and decent food. But just out of the town center is the Burnbrae Pub, an old-world classic pub that was warm and charming and had excellent food.
If I had the chance to do this day again, I would stay at the Premier Inn Glasgow Bearsden, even though it is a little further from the starting point, and I would enjoy the Burnbrae Pub for all drinks and food.
Milngavie to Drymen
My husband and I all smiles at the starting Point
Distance: 12 miles with 933 feet in ascents
Top Tip: Do NOT stay at the Kip in the Kirk B&B
The day had finally come, and anticipation for the start of the adventure was intense. Not only within myself, but you could sense all the other walkers’ excitement and anxieties about the unknown, people almost bouncing with energy, and smiling faces while waiting to take the famous photo of themselves in front of the starting marker.
The halfway point of the day was the Glengoyne Distillery, about half a mile from the trail. It is a pretty spot, but they did not have a license for a tasting room. That’s right, NO tasting! There was also no café, but they did have public restrooms and a gift shop where you could buy their whisky. There were a few picnic tables and some benches if you wanted to have a picnic, but you couldn’t open the whisky you had just purchased while still on their property—you had to wait until you were out of sight and back on the trail.
Glengoyne Distillery
If you decide to make the trip to the distillery, you will be adding a little over a mile to your day. My feet and I did not think this stop was worth the extra mile. On this first day, we ended up walking 14.2 miles instead of the 12 miles we planned on, so the extra distance does add up.
A little bit past Glengoyne Distillery, and right on the path, is the Beech Tree Inn. This pub was super convenient and had good food. I would definitely recommend stopping for a rest here.
Drymen is a nice town with a bunch of hotels and B&Bs. Unfortunately, we stayed at the Kip in the Kirk. This was the only accommodation during our trip that I would suggest you avoid. The two women running the B&B were very nice but seemed to try their hardest to do as little work as possible.
No shoes allowed in the Kip and Kirt
We were welcomed with a cup of tea and a scone, which was nice. But once in the room, you could see the shortcuts. There were no water glasses or kettles, so you could not make yourself coffee or tea. You had to go into their kitchen and ask for a glass or help yourself. This was hard late at night or early in the morning before your allocated breakfast time, especially with over 20 guests staying there at one time.
After a long walk, I like to take a shower and wrap up in a towel. But at the Kip in the Kirk, instead of real towels, they had small 2x2 foot microfiber car drying towels. So, when you jumped out of the shower, you had to wipe your cold body like you would a car or a countertop. I can only assume this was for convenience because they could easily fit 30 of those “towels” in one washing machine.
However, the worst part of this B&B was the absence of breakfast. Their website says they provide a continental breakfast. In our experience, this usually includes some sort of protein. In this instance, it was only bread from a bag, white bagels, one kind of cereal, butter, and marmalade. The hosts kept saying, “the star of the show is the marmalade; all you need is toast and marmalade.” They were very excited about the marmalade. I would have thought that B&B owners that only serve West Highland Way walkers would at least provide them with some cold cuts, cheese, and hard-boiled eggs before a hard day of climbing Conic Hill, especially as most guests were setting off to cover 15 miles. Other guests must have felt the same because we saw a few people around the corner at the Drymen Inn having a cooked breakfast.
Steak Pie and curry special at the Clachan Inn
Drymen has one of the best restaurants along the entire West Highland Way, the Clachan Inn. It was wonderful! Drymen has a handful of restaurants, but the Clachan Inn is not to be missed, so make sure you make a reservation a few weeks ahead of time.
Drymen to Balmaha
Distance: 8.5 miles with 1,336 feet total ascents
Top Tip: In bad weather, take the low route around Conic Hill
This was the day we conquered Conic Hill and its 1,033 feet elevation gain in under a mile and steep descent into Balmaha. This section of the West Highland Way is all about the views and is also a popular day hike for locals, so it can be quite crowded on a nice day.
Highland Cows on the path
We really lucked out with good weather, and so the views over Loch Lomond were spectacular. Highland cattle roamed the hillside; you will most likely run into them, but they mostly ignored the walkers and did not seem aggressive.
Everyone talks about climbing Conic Hill, but no one talks about the descent. I found the descent off Conic Hill to be the most difficult terrain of the entire West Highland Way. I could not believe how steep and slippery it was, and it just went on and on. My legs were shaking uncontrollably, turning into flappy rubber. I would much rather climb up Conic Hill 10 times before ever walking down it again.
To tell you the truth, I did not think I was going to make it to the bottom without my leg muscles giving out. But no one was sending me a helicopter, so I just had to keep going, hoping each step would be steady. I did not realize I had such a fear of falling or not making it down a hill. My advice is to use your poles!
At the base of the hill, there is a path that goes around Conic Hill, and I would recommend taking it in bad weather.
View from the top of Conic Hill
Once in Balmaha, I could only stumble into the Oak Tree Inn. But on such a nice day, it was stunning to sit outside on the deck overlooking Loch Lomond. The Oak Tree Inn has a large pub, a separate coffee and ice cream shop, and a shop where you can pick up sandwiches, candy bars, crisps, and some cooking supplies. There are also lots of rooms and cabins for an overnight stay.
We stayed at Bay Cottage, which was the best B&B we stayed at along the entire West Highland Way. We were greeted with tea, scones, jam, and clotted cream, and our hostess was like a warm grandmother wanting to pamper you. I could have stayed there for a week.
The cereal and fruit bar at Bay Cottage B&B
Balmaha to Rowardennan
Distance: 8.25 miles and 845 feet in ascents
Top Tip: You can skirt around the steep climb right out of Balmaha if your legs feel like Jello
This was a nice easy day for us, and I am glad we decided to stay in Balmaha instead of walking all the way to Rowardennan. If you have the time, I would highly recommend staying in Balmaha. We even got the best tip from our B&B host about walking around the next demanding but impressive hill.
To find this shortcut, walk to the end of the road just past the West Highland Way sign that leads up the steep forest path. When you come to the end of the road, follow the path along the water’s edge, over a bridge, and around a few boulders where the path meets back up with the West Highland Way.
The bridge over part of the shortcut
Once back on the West Highland Way, the path is gentle for a while as it follows the shoreline, and then it climbs up and down through a forest track.
Built-in stairs between Balmaha to Rowardenna
Rowardennan has a few accommodation options, including the Rowardennan Hotel, Rowardennan Lodge Youth Hostel, and a few cabins you can rent long-term.
Now for the truth about the Rowardennan Hotel! This hotel has lots of terrible reviews. I mean so many that I tried desperately to find a different place to stay. But I’m glad we didn’t book elsewhere because this family-run hotel really stood out as one of the best hotels along the West Highland Way.
Our experience at the Rowardennan Hotel was great—the staff were welcoming and friendly, the rooms were clean, and we had an amazing view of Loch Lomond. The restaurant was good, with prompt service, and we enjoyed delicious appetizers, dinner, and a large breakfast the next day.
So, don’t listen to the reviews and do stay at this hotel (and no, I am not getting paid to say this).
Smiling faces as we take the ferry
If it is important to you to take every step of the West Highland Way, then go for it! But here are some easier alternatives if you choose:
1. Walk two miles from the Rowardennan Hotel to the Rowardennan Lodge Youth Hostel, where you can catch the ferry across the Loch to Luss. The ferry leaves once daily in the morning. Luss is a really cute village with plenty of lunch spots.
2. Take a bus the rest of the way to Inveranan
3. Walk 6.5 miles along the WHW to Inversnaid, where you can pick up the ferry to Tarbet, which departs three times a day. Inversnaid also has a nice hotel to break up this portion of the journey.
Inveranan is the home of the infamous Drovers Inn, which is known as the most haunted hotel in Scotland. It is definitely worth going into the pub for a beer, but I would recommend staying and dining at Beinglas Farm.
Inveranan to Tyndrum
Distance: 14.2 miles and 1,914 feet in ascent
Top Tip: Just past the signpost and plaque that marks the middle of the West Highland Way, there is a bench and, a few steps further, a picnic table
This section felt much easier than the days leading up to it. It was still solidly uphill, but most of it was a gradual ascent with some short steep climbs.
The walk was mostly on the old military road that the West Highland Way follows, so it was lots and lots of rocks and uneven ground. I believe this was the first day the rocks started to bother me, but we still had a great time.
Fun spot along the West Highland Way
When we crossed the halfway point of the West Highland Way, it was also right in the middle of the 14-mile day. We were getting tired as we approached the midpoint, where you take a sharp turn into the woods and begin a steep climb. So, we tried to find a spot to rest and have some lunch before the climb. We looked and looked and debated where to throw our rain jackets down to sit on, but we didn’t have much choice but to sit in the long grass with rocks underneath.
It is always nice to rest your legs no matter what you are sitting on. But only five minutes down the path, at the midway signpost, we found a bench. Then, around the next corner, there was a picnic table. We really kicked ourselves and said, “If only we had known.”
Crianlarich crossroads the halfway point marker of the West Highland Way
This day snuck up on me physically. I felt great when we were walking, but by the time we got to our B&B, three of my toes were bruised, and one of them was completely black. I honestly don’t know how it happened, as we were mainly walking uphill. I thought it would happen with the big descents.
Tyndrum is one of the largest towns along the West Highland Way, and it has many restaurant choices. It is also home to the Green Welly Stop, where you can pick up anything you need here. I am also told they have the best food, so I wish we had eaten there.
We chose to eat at the Tyndrum Inn, which was very popular with other walkers. We chatted with almost every walker we saw during the day, and everyone told us we had to eat at the Tyndrum Inn.
We stayed at the Tigh-na-Fraoch B&B, which was nice but very basic. There were no TVs or kettles in your room, but these were available in the common room. The only reason the TV was an issue was it was the day of the Queen’s funeral, and we would have loved to have seen highlights. We had a great breakfast with fresh-caught trout and eggs.
Tyndrum to Inveroran
Distance: 10 miles and 1,180 feet in ascent
Top Tip: Enjoy this section, and do not miss the Inveroran Hotel
Only steep section of the day
This was by far my favorite day of the West Highland Way, even with a toenail threatening to fall off. It was a dream and was the first time we really felt we were in the Highlands of Scotland. The views were amazing, the weather was crisp, and we were in our groove.
After an initial steep climb out of Tyndrum, the path was gentle with rolling hills all the way to Bridge of Orchy. The only rough part was the old military road and those damn rocks!
The rolling hills and military road
The Bridge of Orchy Hotel was a great place to stop and have a cup of tea and some cake. They had a nice restaurant inside and lovely tables outside along the river.
The Inveroran Hotel is 2.5 miles from the Bridge of Orchy, but first, there was a climb up a steep forest track to reach the top of the ridge. I loved this 2.5 miles—it was a workout, but the views were out of this world, and it renewed my soul.
The top of the ridge with amazing views
At the top of the ridge, you can see the remote Inveroran Hotel sitting in a low valley along a river, and the path leads right to the front door.
The Inveroran Hotel was the absolute best hotel along the West Highland Way and the best restaurant! I liked the way they ran this hotel. When we arrived, they checked us in and had us pre-order our evening meal. The dining room was small, warm, and cozy with only a few tables, but the food and presentation were five-star fine dining.
Baked camembert starter
Salmon on top of smashed potatoes with broccolini and killer cream sauce
If you are thinking of only doing a portion of the West Highland Way and seeing the highlights, I would start in Tyndrum and end in Kinlochleven, overnighting at the Inveroran Hotel, Kingshouse Hotel, and ending at the MacDonald Hotel in Kinlochleven.
Inveroran to Kingshouse
Distance: 10 miles and 1,107 feet in ascent
Top Tip: If you are staying in Glencoe or other towns, make sure you have a taxi pre-booked from Kingshouse
This is one of the classic stages of the West Highland Way, and it includes crossing Rannoch Moor. We followed the old military road across a vast wilderness of heather and bog surrounded by grand mountains. In good weather, this is a place of extreme beauty. In a storm, it can be wild, unforgiving, and exposed, especially at Kingshouse.
The old military road walking towards Kingshouse
Black flies and midges have never bothered me in all my travels to Scotland. I know I’m one of the lucky ones. So, I was shocked when hundreds of black flies made their way under my shirt and bra and bit me at the base of my hairline. Black flies are the same size as our house flies but are blood-sucking nasty pests. I did not see any midges, the tiny gnat-like bugs most people complain about in this section much more than in any other area. I did wear “OFF” on this day, but I needed something more like a net cover.
This section was relatively flat and easy on the body, but that military road was still hard going on my feet—I did have a tiny adult temper tantrum. I was so over the rocks!
Bill sitting on a wall along the West Highland Way
The trail followed a stone wall for quite a bit (off and on) which was a great place to stop for a rest, have a seat for lunch, or just take in the view.
Kingshouse has an interesting hotel that is set up for hikers. As we approached the main hotel, there was a standalone building with showers and toilets for the wild campers and a large flat area for pitching tents.
There are two restaurants at Kingshouse, one attached to the main hotel, which is set up for walkers, and one that is more fine dining for hotel guests. The restaurant for hikers has hot soups, meat pies, and sandwiches, and that’s about it. And they only have flat wooden spoons and cutlery, which made it hard to eat my soup. But the soup was the best cream of mushroom soup I have ever had.
The views from the hotel lobby were spectacular. I can only imagine the views from the fancy restaurant and some of the rooms, and I wish we had stayed at the Kingshouse Hotel. As we were taking a rest day, we decided to stay in Glencoe, a 15-minute drive away, as we thought there would be more to do in a small town rather than in a hotel in Kingshouse with nothing around.
View from our taxi to Glencoe, where Harry Potter was filmed
If you are staying anywhere besides the Kingshouse Hotel, you need to have a pre-booked transfer. I cannot stress this enough! We got to Kingshouse early and wanted to have a beer and a snack, which we did, and so did all the other walkers. When we were ready to leave, we called our pre-arranged taxi, and he told us he could not pick us up for two hours because he was just about to start his “school run.” This was not what we wanted to hear. We called every taxi service in the area, and they all told us the same thing, “sorry, we are full today; you have to have it pre-booked.” So, we just had to wait two hours.
We saw a few meltdowns from other groups who did not know this information, and everyone was scrambling on their phones, looking up and calling taxis and hotels. In the end, they had to backtrack and walk a mile to a bus stop to wait for a bus that only runs every few hours.
Kingshouse to Kinlochleven
Distance: 9.8 miles and 1,400 feet in ascent
Top Tip: When tackling the Devil’s Staircase, be patient with yourself and others
The Devil’s Staircase is one of the most popular sections of the West Highland Way, and with breathtaking views of Buachaille Etive Mor and Mamores mountain range, it is easy to see why. The climb is in the form of zig-zags and takes you to the highest point of the West Highland Way. The path is a combination of stairs built into the mountainside, large stones, dirt, and gravel.
Me climbing the Devil’s Staircase
The Devil’s Staircase was crowded and slow going at times. We had to stop and wait quite a bit; there were lots of hikers passing each other, and some stopped to take rests. It is important to be patient in this section, patient with yourself, and patient with others. Everyone is being challenged, and everyone is taking the same steps as you.
The Devil’s Staircase itself is 1.23 miles and 1,144 feet in ascent. The rest of the way to Kinlochleven was fun and easy, most of it walking through moorland and over streams with beautiful views.
One of the many stream crossings
Kinlochleven has many accommodations and restaurants, we stayed at the McDonald Hotel which is perfectly situated on the path on the edge of town. The McDonald Hotel was clean, friendly and has great views from the restaurant, the beds were comfort and the food was good, especially the Cullen Skink and Cheesy Garlic Bread.
Kinlochleven to Fort William
Distance: 15.7 miles and 2,250 feet in ascent
Top Tip: There is a country road that cuts out three miles
The final leg of this tremendous journey was bittersweet. This section was the most challenging day for me. It was downright hard, and if I could have given up, I would have. But it was the last day, so I gave it my all.
The day started with a steep climb out of Kinlochleven, lasting 1.27 miles and 792 feet in ascent. Once we were at the top of the initial climb, we walked through a glen (valley) that was uninhabited by humans and farm animals. The trail had gentle ups and downs until we reached the halfway point of the day. We knew it was halfway as soon as we saw the dozens of walkers sitting on the ground eating lunch.
The rolling hills in the glen
The next six miles were rough, with climb after climb. Just when I thought we might have a little reprieve, I would take my eyes off the trail, look up, and my soul would drop to see the trail keep winding up. Maybe it was because we were tired, our muscles ached, and our feet were not happy.
Right at the 7.5-mile point, there was a country road winding down through the hillside and into Fort William. I was told it cuts out three miles of walking and is all downhill which cuts out the tough 6 miles. Also, it is the only way out of the glen and should be used if you are having a medical issue.
The official end. of the West Highland Way
The descent into Fort William was a relief, a nice dirt and gravel path that turned into a tarmac sidewalk alongside a road to the official end of the West Highland Way.
Fort William is a large town with countless accommodation and restaurant options. The most popular spot for a celebratory drink for West Highland Way walkers is the Ben Nevis Bar, which is a stone’s throw from the official end.
